Another day in Sarajevo

Went out on the newly fixed bikes today and they both work fine,so took them for ride up into the hills. The roads are excellent but the standard but the standard of driving is generally not, so every ride is a bit of an event. Cars up your arse and dodgy overtakes. But we're getting used to it.

So number one stop on the ride was the Tunnel Museum. 

During the war, the Serbs had Sarajevo surrounded, and the only way out was across the airport – which the UN controlled, and because they were impartial, allowed no access to either side. The Serbs were OK because they had access to elsewhere,but the trapped Bosnians couldn't get supplies of anything in or out – food, medicines, ammo or anything, which clearly weakened them. So they tunnelled 800m under the runway and got what they needed that way. Pretty audacious but it saved them and now its a small museum. And a good one too.

Had lunch at a ski resort restaurant and they didn't have anything that we ordered apart from the omelette which was our number three choice. But it was good and filled a hole. A bit of a scary moment though as we got back on the bikes and a policeman appeared. Turned out he just wanted to talk bikes and tell us about his but we thought we were about to get grilled as so far, we have been lucky and escaped all that sort of thing. Had my IPA badges handy in my pocket though.

Then we went up into the hills to the 1984 Olympic Ski Jump site. The jumps are still there as is the infrastructure, and of course, the podium. So the Scoots had to have a go – I did consider the jump but thought better of it, so settled for the podium. We lifted and dragged the scoots up onto the winners spot and took photos while bemused Bosnians looked on. Not sure what they made of it, but nobody seemed to mind.

The hills are beautiful though, really lush and spectacular but full of land mines. Nobody knows where they are as they weren't mapped, so it is an ongoing problem. Apparently, people are employed to clear them but they can only work during the summer because of the snow. 

Stayed at the hostel tonight, did more bike fixing, then ate pizza. This thing arrived and it was the size of a satellite dish, so guess what we'll be having for breakfast? Yep, cold pizza. Yum.

Off to Mostar tomorrow. Its about two and a half hours south of here. That should be another interesting destination.

Week One Round Up

Can't believe we've been on the road for just over a week now. Seems longer than that though in some ways. But so far, we've:

• been through 9 countries - France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Austria, Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia
• Met some fantastic people en route
• Had one puncture
• been chased by three dogs
• Run the bikes in
• Farkled the bikes twice
• Camped once
• Been rained on lots
• Basked in warm sunshine

 This coming week, we're heading for Istanbul via Bulgaria. Happy days.

Doing stuff in Sarajevo

Warm and sunny here and we decided to sort the bikes ready for the onward trip. So this morning, we've had my exhaust off and now know its definitely not loose baffles as previously thought (shook the whole thing and nothing rattled) but rather a 'loose connection' between the exhaust pipe and the head. Although the bolts were tight ( checked everyday) the gap between the pipe and head was not plugged. Is now though - with several layers of cereal packet, and it doesn't rattle at all. Hurrah.

Then we sorted Nadine's throttle cable which had worked loose. That was a real fag as we had to take the whole headset off and the plastics because it had caught in the headstock.Then we dropped the clip that holds the needle in at the carb end, but fortunately found it after much swearing. Then it started but wouldn't idle, so   more swearing and we sorted that.

Now we're both covered  in crap and the water has gone off in this neighbourhood so we can't get clean. Happy days.

 Eventually got sorted and spent the day wandering around the city. It's nice here - calm and almost rural, with people just going about their stuff and enjoying their days, all mixed together. Unusual for a capital city.

It is also  very hilly - very hilly- and consequently tiring to walk around. But we did. Had lunch in a cafe in one of the lanes, lots of workshops selling coffee sets, silverware, clothing etc.

 The plan for tomorrow is to go fore a ride around the Sarajevo Hills, then ride to Mostar on Sunday.

 The city is surrounded by hills, and they are still scattered with  landmines from the Bosnian war. No straying off the beaten track up there then; its actually a serious issue, particularly as the hills look so inviting, and are so close to the city and so easy to get to.

 Three main religious buildings in Sarajevo - synagog to the right. , Central Mosque centre, cathedral left

But what a great sign - no machine guns in the Mosque. OK then.

Sarjevo is also the place where WW1 started with the assassination of Archduke Ferdinand and his wife. As somebody said when we were reading the plaque," this spot marks the recent history of the whole world", and indeed it does 

 This is the actuial spot. The Archduke and his wife were passing left to right in an open carriage just to the left of where the girls are in the picture when Gavrillo Princip stepped out and shot them both.

 Sarajevo has had a bit of a hard time bit it is a really good place. But there is evidence all around. Note the bullet holes in this building from the 1990s war.

So now we're trying to sort a route to Bulgaria though as it looks like the insurance situation in Kosovo and Serbia is difficult - they've bother cottoned onto wandering travellers, and taken to ripping them off at borders. Don't mind paying for insurance, but we very much mind getting shafted and lining border guards pockets.Fifty Euros for a short ride is way too much by any standard. So we might be nipping through Albania and Greece instead.

Made it to Sarajevo today

Couldn't get a good enough signal last night in the tent afterall - just enough to look on FB but nothing else. So that's why there was no blog.But I did write it and have just posted it.

But today we crossed into Bosnia. Went over the border at Bihac, stopped to take pictures at the 'Welcome to Bosnia' sign and I dropped my bike. Nothing serious - side stand sunk into soft ground and toppled over but it was easy to pick up and no damage.

But what a difference between Bosnia and Croatia. There is definitely a different feel to this place but it's hard to describe why. Its an odd mix of rural farmy stuff and people with no teeth, and well dressed people in top of the range cars,using the latest digital camera stuff. A very peculiar mix, but all coexisting seemingly quite happily.

The mean machines hit 2000k today - right at the top of a particularly windy mountain road which was great for the obligatory photo.However, my bike has developed a very tinny rattle - think more baffles inside the exhaust have detached and are banging around as we go along. It doesn't make any difference to how it runs but it does make a bit of a noise and announces our arrival. Might try to get it fixed in Istanbul though.

 We've reached 2000km!

As we rode this morning, we passed many memorial stones to people. Not sure if they had been killed in the war or trashed on the road but if it is the later, then its not a good advert for bosnian driving skills as there are loads of them, and all dated around about the same time. Isolated plaques, each etched on some sort of dark stone with the peron's picture and their personal details. Alongside the road, in fields, in towns, gardens, school yards.I suppose war isn't choosy when it comes to picking off the enemy, whoever that enemy might be. A bit incongrous to see the stones in picturesque scenery and now calm and well cared for peaceful towns though.

 Stopped off in Jajce to have a look at a waterfall and eat ice cream in the last King of Bosnia's front yard. Not a bad spot. His castle is on top of a cliff, and a river runs by the side, dropping down in a series of low platforms, over which water flows. Not a bad water feature and the ice cream was good too.

Did some big miles today too - about 270 - and on a mixture of excellent empty roads, and some right dodgy ones. It seems that half of Bosnia is currently being dug up and having the top layer of road surface removed  in a sort of bizarre exfoliation process. Trouble is, they do the whole road at once and don't shut any of it, so cars, trucks and buses and dogs compete for the little bit of road, and we joined them today which proved to be a bit scary add the grooves that are left go in the direction of travel and are just wide enough for our tyres to get trapped in. It was quite tiring, but neither of us fell off.

 Had a bit of a dodgy stretch though when we were called to the front of a traffic jam and told to carry on.We had about a metre of carrriageway, but were going against the traffic, which was coming at us at full pelt. It was only made worse when a big dog decided to chase us. He missed Nadine -who later confessed she hadn't even seen him- but made a beeline for me as we both reached a gap in the Armco together. He was a big bitey werewolf thing, running at full pelt, so I had to stand up on the left footpeg and kick out at him with my right foot. Fortunately he got the message and I out ran him.

Had a mad ride into Sarjevo, along the main drag and past war damaged buildings that still show signs of the previous conflict. We arrived in rush hour, so it was a bit like wacky races, but again, we survived and reached the hostel in one piece. Staying in a hostel for a few nights in the old bit, above the old town, with some friends of Nadine's. Nice people.

Funniest thing all day and all of this trip however is the dog from the hostel (Medi, a large fluffy dog) howling in time to the call to prayer from the nearby mosque. He even knew when to pause and when to raise his voice. I filmed him doing it but he spotted me and got all shy. Going for a look around the city tomorrow.

Croatia Today

Left Ljubljana this morning and wandered down to the border with Croatia near to Postonja. Great winding roads on the way there, almost deserted, some up in the hills, alongside fields and lakes, some through towns but all great to ride. Slovenia is a cracking place – generally very rural but urban in a sort of understated way. Just short of the border, there was a waft of wild garlic floating over the road. Not sure if it was deliberate and designed to keep invading Croatians or vampires away, but it smelled great.

Both sets of border guards laughed at us when we crossed into Croatia – Slovinian and Croatian –  when they asked where we were heading. We're used to that by now though and it meant we got through super quick, so we were soon on our way.Of course, this might also have something to do with it.

Well, you have to dry your small somehow when on the road.

Rode down to the sea at Rijeka, right on the Adriatic, had lunch there, did some internet banking, and discovered that wifi is free in the whole town, paid for by the City Council. Why can't Boris do that in London?

Continued along the coast to Ozijek. The Adriatic coast is something else – lots of islands, mountains and wide open space, all set off by azzurre sea that is so clear that you can see the sea bed from the road. Then we turned inland, rode up the gorge, through a valley of farms and into Plitvice National Park. Stopped just short of the border because we were tired and it was getting late. Currently camping at a nice site, still in the Park, testing out the camping kit for the first time. Hope it works Ok because its a bit cold up here in the mountains. And guess what? We can get wifi in our tent!! Come on down!

An easy day today

Decided we'd have a bit of an easy time of it today and not pack in the kms because we've spent the past few days doing that in order to get out of Northern Europeand we're tired.So we rode from Bled to Bohinj (about 30k) where there is another lake ( Lake Bohinj)) and a spectacular waterfall. Seriously spectacular - in fact there are two of them one 78m high, the other 25, both rejoicing in the name of Slap Savica. Climbed up there for some photos and a well deserved rest - a very steep, heart pumping climb - then a quick stop for coffee, and a ride to Ljubljana. Only we didn't get very far because Nadine got a puncture so we stopped to fix that. Took us about 20 mins, by which time it was hot. Once that was done, we went up over the mountain towards Ljubljana but accidentally took a very rural logging road. through a forest which made for some interesting gravelly mud riding, but just as they do, the little scoots just got on with it and we had no trouble.

 Castle and Lake Bled

Arrived in Ljubljana at about 5pm, found somewhere to stay, and farkled the bikes - which are now covered with forest mud. Nothing much to do on them other than check tyre pressure, chain tension, repair the holed tube and look for the source of a very annoying rattle which has puzzled us both for the last several days. Its like a tinny vibration but we just couldn't locate it. Nothing serious, but annoying. But then we hit on it - a baffle from inside the exhaust had snapped off, melted, and was  pinging about inside. It was just visible, so we pulled it out, and hey presto. Job done.

Ate in the town last night. Really nice place, churches and castles and rivers and pavement cafes etc.

But then there's always  bit of the familiar.......spot the carrier bag

Weather is warm and sunny and we've done our washing.  Planning to ride across across Croatia today, heading for Banja Luka in Bosnia and then Sarajevo tomorrow.

Some photos from a few days ago...

Three countries and several mountains in one day

Despite leaving Salzburg much later than we'd intended  - largely because we were faffing about -we still managed to ride the whole way across Austria, cross into Italy, take pictures at the border crossing which is now a collection of disused buildings, then do the same several miles up the road at the border with Slovenia,  spend the whole of the afternoon riding some spectacular mountain roads, before crossing over the Vrsic Pass, then  dropping down into Bled, where we found a place to stay for the night.An excellent day's riding and many kms covered, although it's now starting to hit home that China and Mongolia are actually a very long way from London, and it will be quite an ordeal to get there. Not that that changes anything though;we're still doing exactly what we set out to do, but the enormity of it is now out in the open!

But the bikes are flying. Really minging along whatever we throw at them - motorways, mountain passes, gravel tracks. They've not let us down at all so far and are a really cool ride.  Met and American couple in a service station Austria this morning who asked about the bikes and they just couldn't get their heads around how such small bikes will get us so far. But we will get there one way or another.

Had a wander around Bled tonight. It's quite spectacular with a castle right on top of a tall tuff of rock, standing over the lake, which apparently has healing qualities. As a result, the little rural village that was once here is now a bustling tourist town, catering for people with bits that don't work or are falling off them, but believe that the water - which does look and smell like ordinary lake water  - will fix them. But good for them; if it was a toss up between Lake Bled and the NHS, I'd probably do the lake route too.

The plan tomorrow is to ride over to Bohinj and have a quick walk, then go to Ljubljana for lunch, and then head for Zagreb and Coatia.

We've made it to Saltzburg

Got here at about 8pm last night and found a place to stay in a hostel which is actually OK. Modern and clean and not full of woolly old hippies. They also let us park the bikes in their garage which was good of them as it means they're not only tucked away but we have a dry place to do the daily service on them.

Fabulous roads today too - empty, winding and through open countryside, although around Munich, other drivers were a bit mad and scary, overtaking us at very high speed and cutting in for no apparent reason. Don't think it was aimed at us though - just impatience and the style of driving that seems to be the way things are done around here.Our bikes are now fully run in and nipping along nicely - comfortable to ride at a steady 70/80kpm (45/50 mph).Good on fuel too - we fill up about every two hours or so and it costs about 8 euros for both bikes together. Can't complain about that. Also picked up some oil and removed my very rattley exhaust guard. Nadines's came off several days ago, but they are of no use what so ever, and so not a problem. Now over 1000k mark on the clock - 973 k more than when we left home. Easy!!

Gordon left us and rode home today too.He was heading for Ypres in Belgium to spend a day there riding around before crossing back over the water to Blighty. Think he was torn between riding on with us and going back to work. Off to Slovenia today.

A wet old ride today

You know what? It rained all bloody day today. All day. Tipped it down, right through Luxembourg and all across Germany. Skies were spectacular though - inky black, with shafts of silver sunlight and lots of rainbows but we're so over that now, so dull dry skies tomorrow please, whoever is in charge of that sort of thing.Got as far as Stuttgart and are currently holed up in Motel One Hotel. It is clean and dry and warm, and an ace opportunity for us to dry out our gear. Gordon leaves in the morning to ride back to London, which should be quicker on his Transalp alone than it has been following two not in the least bit run in Chinese scooters.  The plan for us is to continue on towards Austria and if we go well, Slovenia. Fingers crossed on that one.Depends as much on the weather as anything though.

Did a bit of farkling last night in Luxembourg. Changed the oil, adjusted and oiled the chains, pumped the tyres and removed the kick start arm from both bikes it was a right pain in the arse. Don't know who designed it but there was no room for even a small foot let alone bigger hooves. So that came off and will be on its way back to England in the morning. Also gave the sheepskins a haircut and they now sit flush, instead of half up in the air,which is alot more comfortable.

    Nadine riding towards a double rainbow in Germany

 

Day 1

We've on way!!! At large in Belgium at the moment, heading for Germany. Missed the ferry from Dover yesterday - by four hours and got fined - but got on the 2000hrs crossing and found a place to stay in Dunkerque.,

Bikes are going well, we're staying off motorways for the time being but the engines are loosening up nicely. Just hope they don't loosen up too much and fall out though. And its stopped raining although it was a bit drizzely when we first set off this morning.

Yesterday

Have had some very funny moments already when people have asked where we're off to. Somehow " China" doesn't seem to be the answer they are expecting - a woman in the petrol station nearly choked yesterday, but she recovered quite quickly.

Today, somewhere in Belgium

Its D Day !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 Yep it is.......two hours before we leave and there is stuff everywhere. Still got  a few things to do to the bikes too. And its raining. But we're going whatever, so follow the blog and see what happens!

More here too: www.spotadventures.com Tracking where we are etc.


And this is my house - 5 minutes ago. Bugger, bugger, bugger.

D Day - 1

It's Flap City here.

So far this morning we have changed flights, booked hotels, booked the ferry, chased visas, updated Spotadventures, forgotten the password, changed it, Nikwaxed the panniers, loaded Ipods, written magazine articles x3 and done the photos,. And its still only 1250hrs. No fighting yet though.

Now just about to sort what gear to take. Got numerous piles on the floor and a checklist so we're cooking on gas.

Also found the YF certs and International driving licences. One passport each is on way to Istanbul, hopefully to reappear in a few weeks, and still with our respective names on them. Can't quite believe we're off tomorrow. Whose idea was this anyway?

Oh flippin' heck.....

....where has this week gone? Its Tuesday night, we leave on Thursday but are we ready? No of course not. And we're panicking. A lot.

Good news is that the bikes are good and we have ridden them. Not far, but we've done it and they are fine. No crashes, no arrests, no wheels overtaking us going down hill. Goodo. They are now parked outside and the dining room is bikeless and a bit empty - you can actually eat in it now, much to the husband and sons' astonishment.

 Anyway, here they are in Wimbledon yesterday.....and in a bit of sunshine too. Just need to put some stickers on them, then pack, find various essential documents ( including my Yellow Fever jab certificate which I seem to have misplaced) mark the route on the map .... and then we're ready.

And this is the trip tee shirt that the always lovely Peter Darke of Darke Cycles in Sunderland  made for us. Top bloke and very cool shirt - thanks Pete ( a fellow Gambia rider)

So I guess tomorrow it really is our last chance to get sorted. I've given up looking for my new point and shoot camera - which I think I probably accidentally packed and freighted to Mongolia last Sunday. (It was a bad day all round) so I've had to buy another one for those essential 'riding along one handed when you're not supposed to shots' en route. Good job it wasn't one of my bigger cameras that got posted.


But would you believe it, just as I am on the verge of clearing off for several months, I get offered two very cool photographic jobs this summer. Said thanks but no thanks though.... but neither matched up to this. Last night at CFC. It's who you know............