Made it to Sarajevo today

Couldn't get a good enough signal last night in the tent afterall - just enough to look on FB but nothing else. So that's why there was no blog.But I did write it and have just posted it.

But today we crossed into Bosnia. Went over the border at Bihac, stopped to take pictures at the 'Welcome to Bosnia' sign and I dropped my bike. Nothing serious - side stand sunk into soft ground and toppled over but it was easy to pick up and no damage.

But what a difference between Bosnia and Croatia. There is definitely a different feel to this place but it's hard to describe why. Its an odd mix of rural farmy stuff and people with no teeth, and well dressed people in top of the range cars,using the latest digital camera stuff. A very peculiar mix, but all coexisting seemingly quite happily.

The mean machines hit 2000k today - right at the top of a particularly windy mountain road which was great for the obligatory photo.However, my bike has developed a very tinny rattle - think more baffles inside the exhaust have detached and are banging around as we go along. It doesn't make any difference to how it runs but it does make a bit of a noise and announces our arrival. Might try to get it fixed in Istanbul though.

 We've reached 2000km!

As we rode this morning, we passed many memorial stones to people. Not sure if they had been killed in the war or trashed on the road but if it is the later, then its not a good advert for bosnian driving skills as there are loads of them, and all dated around about the same time. Isolated plaques, each etched on some sort of dark stone with the peron's picture and their personal details. Alongside the road, in fields, in towns, gardens, school yards.I suppose war isn't choosy when it comes to picking off the enemy, whoever that enemy might be. A bit incongrous to see the stones in picturesque scenery and now calm and well cared for peaceful towns though.

 Stopped off in Jajce to have a look at a waterfall and eat ice cream in the last King of Bosnia's front yard. Not a bad spot. His castle is on top of a cliff, and a river runs by the side, dropping down in a series of low platforms, over which water flows. Not a bad water feature and the ice cream was good too.

Did some big miles today too - about 270 - and on a mixture of excellent empty roads, and some right dodgy ones. It seems that half of Bosnia is currently being dug up and having the top layer of road surface removed  in a sort of bizarre exfoliation process. Trouble is, they do the whole road at once and don't shut any of it, so cars, trucks and buses and dogs compete for the little bit of road, and we joined them today which proved to be a bit scary add the grooves that are left go in the direction of travel and are just wide enough for our tyres to get trapped in. It was quite tiring, but neither of us fell off.

 Had a bit of a dodgy stretch though when we were called to the front of a traffic jam and told to carry on.We had about a metre of carrriageway, but were going against the traffic, which was coming at us at full pelt. It was only made worse when a big dog decided to chase us. He missed Nadine -who later confessed she hadn't even seen him- but made a beeline for me as we both reached a gap in the Armco together. He was a big bitey werewolf thing, running at full pelt, so I had to stand up on the left footpeg and kick out at him with my right foot. Fortunately he got the message and I out ran him.

Had a mad ride into Sarjevo, along the main drag and past war damaged buildings that still show signs of the previous conflict. We arrived in rush hour, so it was a bit like wacky races, but again, we survived and reached the hostel in one piece. Staying in a hostel for a few nights in the old bit, above the old town, with some friends of Nadine's. Nice people.

Funniest thing all day and all of this trip however is the dog from the hostel (Medi, a large fluffy dog) howling in time to the call to prayer from the nearby mosque. He even knew when to pause and when to raise his voice. I filmed him doing it but he spotted me and got all shy. Going for a look around the city tomorrow.

Croatia Today

Left Ljubljana this morning and wandered down to the border with Croatia near to Postonja. Great winding roads on the way there, almost deserted, some up in the hills, alongside fields and lakes, some through towns but all great to ride. Slovenia is a cracking place – generally very rural but urban in a sort of understated way. Just short of the border, there was a waft of wild garlic floating over the road. Not sure if it was deliberate and designed to keep invading Croatians or vampires away, but it smelled great.

Both sets of border guards laughed at us when we crossed into Croatia – Slovinian and Croatian –  when they asked where we were heading. We're used to that by now though and it meant we got through super quick, so we were soon on our way.Of course, this might also have something to do with it.

Well, you have to dry your small somehow when on the road.

Rode down to the sea at Rijeka, right on the Adriatic, had lunch there, did some internet banking, and discovered that wifi is free in the whole town, paid for by the City Council. Why can't Boris do that in London?

Continued along the coast to Ozijek. The Adriatic coast is something else – lots of islands, mountains and wide open space, all set off by azzurre sea that is so clear that you can see the sea bed from the road. Then we turned inland, rode up the gorge, through a valley of farms and into Plitvice National Park. Stopped just short of the border because we were tired and it was getting late. Currently camping at a nice site, still in the Park, testing out the camping kit for the first time. Hope it works Ok because its a bit cold up here in the mountains. And guess what? We can get wifi in our tent!! Come on down!

An easy day today

Decided we'd have a bit of an easy time of it today and not pack in the kms because we've spent the past few days doing that in order to get out of Northern Europeand we're tired.So we rode from Bled to Bohinj (about 30k) where there is another lake ( Lake Bohinj)) and a spectacular waterfall. Seriously spectacular - in fact there are two of them one 78m high, the other 25, both rejoicing in the name of Slap Savica. Climbed up there for some photos and a well deserved rest - a very steep, heart pumping climb - then a quick stop for coffee, and a ride to Ljubljana. Only we didn't get very far because Nadine got a puncture so we stopped to fix that. Took us about 20 mins, by which time it was hot. Once that was done, we went up over the mountain towards Ljubljana but accidentally took a very rural logging road. through a forest which made for some interesting gravelly mud riding, but just as they do, the little scoots just got on with it and we had no trouble.

 Castle and Lake Bled

Arrived in Ljubljana at about 5pm, found somewhere to stay, and farkled the bikes - which are now covered with forest mud. Nothing much to do on them other than check tyre pressure, chain tension, repair the holed tube and look for the source of a very annoying rattle which has puzzled us both for the last several days. Its like a tinny vibration but we just couldn't locate it. Nothing serious, but annoying. But then we hit on it - a baffle from inside the exhaust had snapped off, melted, and was  pinging about inside. It was just visible, so we pulled it out, and hey presto. Job done.

Ate in the town last night. Really nice place, churches and castles and rivers and pavement cafes etc.

But then there's always  bit of the familiar.......spot the carrier bag

Weather is warm and sunny and we've done our washing.  Planning to ride across across Croatia today, heading for Banja Luka in Bosnia and then Sarajevo tomorrow.

Some photos from a few days ago...

Three countries and several mountains in one day

Despite leaving Salzburg much later than we'd intended  - largely because we were faffing about -we still managed to ride the whole way across Austria, cross into Italy, take pictures at the border crossing which is now a collection of disused buildings, then do the same several miles up the road at the border with Slovenia,  spend the whole of the afternoon riding some spectacular mountain roads, before crossing over the Vrsic Pass, then  dropping down into Bled, where we found a place to stay for the night.An excellent day's riding and many kms covered, although it's now starting to hit home that China and Mongolia are actually a very long way from London, and it will be quite an ordeal to get there. Not that that changes anything though;we're still doing exactly what we set out to do, but the enormity of it is now out in the open!

But the bikes are flying. Really minging along whatever we throw at them - motorways, mountain passes, gravel tracks. They've not let us down at all so far and are a really cool ride.  Met and American couple in a service station Austria this morning who asked about the bikes and they just couldn't get their heads around how such small bikes will get us so far. But we will get there one way or another.

Had a wander around Bled tonight. It's quite spectacular with a castle right on top of a tall tuff of rock, standing over the lake, which apparently has healing qualities. As a result, the little rural village that was once here is now a bustling tourist town, catering for people with bits that don't work or are falling off them, but believe that the water - which does look and smell like ordinary lake water  - will fix them. But good for them; if it was a toss up between Lake Bled and the NHS, I'd probably do the lake route too.

The plan tomorrow is to ride over to Bohinj and have a quick walk, then go to Ljubljana for lunch, and then head for Zagreb and Coatia.

We've made it to Saltzburg

Got here at about 8pm last night and found a place to stay in a hostel which is actually OK. Modern and clean and not full of woolly old hippies. They also let us park the bikes in their garage which was good of them as it means they're not only tucked away but we have a dry place to do the daily service on them.

Fabulous roads today too - empty, winding and through open countryside, although around Munich, other drivers were a bit mad and scary, overtaking us at very high speed and cutting in for no apparent reason. Don't think it was aimed at us though - just impatience and the style of driving that seems to be the way things are done around here.Our bikes are now fully run in and nipping along nicely - comfortable to ride at a steady 70/80kpm (45/50 mph).Good on fuel too - we fill up about every two hours or so and it costs about 8 euros for both bikes together. Can't complain about that. Also picked up some oil and removed my very rattley exhaust guard. Nadines's came off several days ago, but they are of no use what so ever, and so not a problem. Now over 1000k mark on the clock - 973 k more than when we left home. Easy!!

Gordon left us and rode home today too.He was heading for Ypres in Belgium to spend a day there riding around before crossing back over the water to Blighty. Think he was torn between riding on with us and going back to work. Off to Slovenia today.

A wet old ride today

You know what? It rained all bloody day today. All day. Tipped it down, right through Luxembourg and all across Germany. Skies were spectacular though - inky black, with shafts of silver sunlight and lots of rainbows but we're so over that now, so dull dry skies tomorrow please, whoever is in charge of that sort of thing.Got as far as Stuttgart and are currently holed up in Motel One Hotel. It is clean and dry and warm, and an ace opportunity for us to dry out our gear. Gordon leaves in the morning to ride back to London, which should be quicker on his Transalp alone than it has been following two not in the least bit run in Chinese scooters.  The plan for us is to continue on towards Austria and if we go well, Slovenia. Fingers crossed on that one.Depends as much on the weather as anything though.

Did a bit of farkling last night in Luxembourg. Changed the oil, adjusted and oiled the chains, pumped the tyres and removed the kick start arm from both bikes it was a right pain in the arse. Don't know who designed it but there was no room for even a small foot let alone bigger hooves. So that came off and will be on its way back to England in the morning. Also gave the sheepskins a haircut and they now sit flush, instead of half up in the air,which is alot more comfortable.

    Nadine riding towards a double rainbow in Germany

 

Day 1

We've on way!!! At large in Belgium at the moment, heading for Germany. Missed the ferry from Dover yesterday - by four hours and got fined - but got on the 2000hrs crossing and found a place to stay in Dunkerque.,

Bikes are going well, we're staying off motorways for the time being but the engines are loosening up nicely. Just hope they don't loosen up too much and fall out though. And its stopped raining although it was a bit drizzely when we first set off this morning.

Yesterday

Have had some very funny moments already when people have asked where we're off to. Somehow " China" doesn't seem to be the answer they are expecting - a woman in the petrol station nearly choked yesterday, but she recovered quite quickly.

Today, somewhere in Belgium

Its D Day !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 Yep it is.......two hours before we leave and there is stuff everywhere. Still got  a few things to do to the bikes too. And its raining. But we're going whatever, so follow the blog and see what happens!

More here too: www.spotadventures.com Tracking where we are etc.


And this is my house - 5 minutes ago. Bugger, bugger, bugger.

D Day - 1

It's Flap City here.

So far this morning we have changed flights, booked hotels, booked the ferry, chased visas, updated Spotadventures, forgotten the password, changed it, Nikwaxed the panniers, loaded Ipods, written magazine articles x3 and done the photos,. And its still only 1250hrs. No fighting yet though.

Now just about to sort what gear to take. Got numerous piles on the floor and a checklist so we're cooking on gas.

Also found the YF certs and International driving licences. One passport each is on way to Istanbul, hopefully to reappear in a few weeks, and still with our respective names on them. Can't quite believe we're off tomorrow. Whose idea was this anyway?

Oh flippin' heck.....

....where has this week gone? Its Tuesday night, we leave on Thursday but are we ready? No of course not. And we're panicking. A lot.

Good news is that the bikes are good and we have ridden them. Not far, but we've done it and they are fine. No crashes, no arrests, no wheels overtaking us going down hill. Goodo. They are now parked outside and the dining room is bikeless and a bit empty - you can actually eat in it now, much to the husband and sons' astonishment.

 Anyway, here they are in Wimbledon yesterday.....and in a bit of sunshine too. Just need to put some stickers on them, then pack, find various essential documents ( including my Yellow Fever jab certificate which I seem to have misplaced) mark the route on the map .... and then we're ready.

And this is the trip tee shirt that the always lovely Peter Darke of Darke Cycles in Sunderland  made for us. Top bloke and very cool shirt - thanks Pete ( a fellow Gambia rider)

So I guess tomorrow it really is our last chance to get sorted. I've given up looking for my new point and shoot camera - which I think I probably accidentally packed and freighted to Mongolia last Sunday. (It was a bad day all round) so I've had to buy another one for those essential 'riding along one handed when you're not supposed to shots' en route. Good job it wasn't one of my bigger cameras that got posted.


But would you believe it, just as I am on the verge of clearing off for several months, I get offered two very cool photographic jobs this summer. Said thanks but no thanks though.... but neither matched up to this. Last night at CFC. It's who you know............

Must try this disappearing thing again.....

My arm is now fixed - many thanks David for your hard work this week; it is much appreciated and I shall send you a postcard. And also to Hilary for being such a good egg, and David's friend Gillian for top tips on travel sleep with a manky arm.


But the best news of all ( for me at least) is that while I've been away, my bike has` been miraculously sorted out by the various people currently squatting in my house. 12v charger wired in, bike run, useless Chinese oil with accumulated swarf drained and replaced with fresh non swarfy oil, seat and rack put back on, headlamp grill sorted. Just got to locktite nuts, extend the backrack, put the legshields back on, find the spare passport I have misplaced (its the 'clean' one of course, and so quite important but it will be somewhere.....I hope), then turn up on Thursday and ride to China. Good old biker mates - top people!


Also had a phone call from bro in law in Ulan Bataar to say the tyres I sent out two months ago have arrived safe and sound. Somewhat bizarre to be standing in my room at the Police Rehab place in lovely rural Oxfordshire, and be talking to a bloke 10000 miles away in a ger in the coldest capital city in the world about my bike. Mad. Almost as mad as me buying a train ticket from Ulan Bataar to Beijing over the phone on Wednesday - cost £195.00 but then I got a call back to say the exchange rates had been revised so it was actually only £168.00 Result.

Catch up pics - including one of the newly mended arm - to follow on Sunday.

A bit of limb-o........

So close but still not quite there. I'm away at the moment getting my arm fixed -  might be a rotator cuff injury but hopefully not and it can be fixed with intensive physio at the Police Rehabilitation Centre at Goring (near Reading). They are superb and have fixed me before, so I'm very confident that I'll be sorted. It had hurt so much on the ride across Africa though that I was almost on the point of not being able to carry on, but as the point of no return had long since vanished into the Sahara, I just kept riding and got Sue and Nadine to help me manipulate it and manage it that way. But things look good and ,we're still on for next Thursday and ride time!


So poor old Nadine has been doing the last minute jobs, and we now have plates, visas, essential spares and tyres,a medical kit and even a packing list! Haven't ridden the scoots yet but we will on Sunday. Gordon is planning to ride with us as far as Germany before heading back to work, then we're on our own. Us and the Chinese scoots and 10 000 miles -scarily exciting.

Bikes are working!!!!

Yaay! My bike started first time - much to Nadine's annoyance as hers was still playing hard to get. But thanks to good old Peter Darke ( of Darke Cycles, Sunderland - top man, good pal, and fellow C90 to Gambia rider) we traced the problem to a faulty kill switch. So we were almost there ourselves but couldn't nail it - until Peter said ' maybe it's a reverse switch', which is exactly what it turned out to be.

We had removed it and joined the wires to complete the circuit - but actually, the wires needed to be separate as joining them broke it. Simple, infuriatingly frustrating, but now we know!

New point and shoot camera arrived yesterday. No extending lens on this one to be jammed by dust and grit, and easy to keep in a top pocket. Yet it is a move to the dark side - Nikon from Canon, but as long as it works like it's supposed to (Mr Canon please note) then that is OK.

And even better is that it can be configured for lefties - so much easier for me riding one handed and taking pics.

Airflow jacket is also here. Cooler for hot weather but still OK for general riding - with a few layers and a windproof light jacket over the top.

Just about to sort a backing plate for the number plate and grilles to cover the headlamp. Got the tin, got the mesh, so here goes.

Frustration

Still waiting for the bloody rego papers so can't ride - come on DVLA; you're quick enough with points when a speeding ticket or somthing is involved. Mind you, we can't figure out the non firing problem on the bikes, so we're stuck anyway. But it will be something simple and just needs detecting and fixing. It is all soooo frustrating though, particularly as its only 14 days till we leave.

But on the up side, being marooned means we're on top of most of the prep. We've got stuff to make grill guards for the headlamps, modify the number plate attachment so we don't lose them and get fined at borders, an assortment of jubilee clips to fix snapped exhausts and footpeg rubbers, and tubing to extend the rear racks. Nadine is sorting a basic but effective medical kit, I've found the maps that I lost and got the camera kit pared down to essentials. Tents are also sorted - including pegs and poles, as is a small but essential tool kit. Farkleing should only take a day, which is just as well as that is probably all we'll have at this rate.

Visas are all well underway and passports are at various places - two at the Mongolian Embassy, two spares on way to Stantours for the Stans paperwork. They won't be back intime before we leave, so they'll be Fedexed down to the Istanbul Bike Club who will look after them for us. Crossings sorted from the UK to France and the route down to Turkey is planned - France, Belgium, Lux, Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, Bulgaria, Turkey. Bit of wiggling about so we can see people and places, and its not set in stone.

Then the plan is to cross from Trabzon to Sochi ( or whatever port the Russians are now using while Sochi is closed for Winter Olympics prep), ride up to Astrakahn into Kazakhstan, head for the Aral Sea, Tashkent, Samarkand, Dushanbe, Osh, Bishkek, Almaty, Semey, Irkutsk, Ulan Ude, to UB. That will be a bit of a ride and nobody said it would be easy, but hey, we've just ridden across Africa on even smaller bikes, so we know we can do it.

See, easy! But any bike problems and we'll get one of these

Or a camel.

After that, Mongolia. We're planning to ride the whole country, huge as it is, but have lots of contacts, so don't envisage too much difficulty. We'll drop in from the top (Ulan Ude direction), down to UB, taking in interesting bits of the northeast as we do, ride down to The Gobi and then continue westwards and upwards before heading back to UB, where we will get the train down to China. We'll post the bikes back to London to UB ( in bits - I have a plan, assuming they're worth saving, if not, we'll donate them to my bro in law to break for parts and sell for his trouble. Already know how to get round the customs problem should that happen - that's a benefit of having local family)

So then Beijing. Reckon on a week/ 10 days there focused in the city centre, having a general look around and also looking for the places that my great aunt photographed back in the 1920s. Her pics are in SOAS in London and they allowed me to copy them so that will be interesting to do. I'll do that on a better camera though, which my brother will take to UB for me so I won't have to drag it across the world on a small motorbike.

So, come on rego papers, we need you.......

Monday stuff......

In a bit of limbo at the moment as we're still waiting for the rego papers so we can get plates and ride, BUT that doesn't mean we've been lazy. Nope. Rode to Coventry on Saturday to see some of Nadine's friends but went on bigger bikes as the scoots are still confined to the dining room. Quick and comfortable but again, oh sooo boring.

We've also now got most of the kit we need although its in piles around the house and certainly not packed and ready to go. Getting a bit panicky now as I won't be here next week as I'll be away getting my shoulder fixed, so I really need to get sorted before I go on Sunday. Maybe the answer is to take nothing and thus cut out the packing bit. Cripes, its come around fast, and we haven't even got a route as yet. So we'll just get the ferry from Dover to Calais then make the rest up as we go along until we get to Mongolia. Easy, and it will be OK. No really, it will......

Update......

Guess what? Bikes are now registered and insured! Yaay! Valerie at Riders was spot on with her forms and instructions, and even the DVLA in Wimbledon remarked how efficient the pack was she had given me. So many thanks that woman - excellent work! Just waiting for the rego docs now and then we'll be on the road.

Failed on the frogspawn front though - old pond lady up the road is away for the weekend, so the niece will have to wait.

Big day today

 Type papers arrived from China yesterday so number one job today is to register them with the DVLA in Wimbledon. I have strict and comprehensive instructions from Valerie at Riders and she knows what is what so hopefully, it should be straightforward.  Fingers crossed.

Tony also reckons our non starting problem might be linked to us having removed the side stand cut out afterall. Probably need to bridge the loom, so we'll give that a go too. This is exactly why we bought the bikes unmade - to learn as we go, and while we still have access to people with relevant info. Good call that one, but we now won't be able to ride them to Coventry as planned this w/e as we still need to insure them. But no matter; we'll just have to ride them lots next week. Not worried about the running in bit as much as finding specific problems that need to be sorted before we leave.

Next most pressing task today is to find frogspawn for my 6 year old niece. According to her, it is very important, and although I'm not quite sure why, I am apparently the only one who can possibly get it for her. Must be because I have nothing else to do in my leisure filled days...........but on the plus side, she was able, unaided, to find both Mongolia and China on her world map yesterday ( or the ' picture of everything' as she calls it) and tells me she will draw us a map to help us get there. Goodo.

We have scoots!

Yep, almost done and looking very scoot like and ready to ride now. Yaay!!

Nadine's friend Tony acted as our gofer and extra pair of hands yesterday, which was great as we zipped through the last few fiddley and heavy bits. Then we fired Nadine's up; it turned over OK but wouldn't spark, and we suspect the very dodgy looking plug cap and lead. We'd planned on replacing both anyway but we're still awaiting the caps, so until we can do that job, we're a bit snookered.

We're also waiting for the type approval certs from China. They are apparently on way, the factory having forgotten to send them. They should arrive today, so then it will be a trip to the local rego office in Wimbledon, get our plates, insure the bikes, and then road test the wee beasties.

Visas are also in the pipeline, final bits of essential kit have arrived - including some flat 5L fuel cans. We'll take two each, which will give us a 13L capacity, which should give us a range of  300 miles/500km plus. Won't be a problem in Europe and we'll probably use one as a water carrier, but it will be useful in the more remote bits.

We're getting there.....

Thanks to a wet and dismal Easter, we are further ahead building the bikes than we expected to be. Nadine's is almost done and actually looks sort of bike like, whilst Belle's should be like that by later today. Nadine can't do any more at the moment though as we've decided to replace the HT lead and spark plugs on both bikes, and are just waiting for them to arrive.

Rerouting the wiring loom was a good call ( thanks Tony) as was removing the side stand cut out switch. That is highly likely to break and prevent the engine from starting, so disconnecting it before we go makes sense, rather than at the side of the road in the dark - as usually happens. The old C90s never had them anyway, so its not a problem.

We've also removed the uber crap paper thin Chinese rim tape from both wheels and gaffer taped the rims instead. Hopefully that will retard any spoke damage, and we've resited the main switch relay and  waterproofed it with a latex glove, instead of the rubbish watercover that came with the bike. Resiting means that the assembly actually now fits inside the cover instead of having to be crammed into  a space that just doesn't work. Should reduce wire chafing and allow us to replace fuses more easily too.
Then we'll do the locktight thing, protect the front and rear main lights ( haven't decided how yet - maybe perspex, maybe wire mesh) and fix the rear number plate assembly so that the plate doesn't fall off. Will probably also get tin plates if we can as they don't snap like the plastic ones.

Visas are underway too. Decided to use Stan Tours to save the paperwork headache and did the Russian visa via Real Russia. The Mongolian one is no problem though as my sis in law will get them when she gets hers ( she is Mongolian and rather indignant because now she has a British passport, she too needs a visa; the Mongol Govt doesn't allow dual nationality, or as they told her 'Mongol or not' and 'not' is far easier when it comes to roaming the world).

So that is us up to date. Photos to follow as soon as I find under which pile of tools and spares my camera is.

The Gobi Gals start today...........

........well prepping anyway, or the little prepping that we're going to do.

Picked up two new scoots yesterday - Chinese copies with 110 engines in gold - yep Gobi coloured so we'll fit in. Bought them from Tony at Riders of Yeovil (www.ridersmotorcycles.co.uk/) who also supplied the four Chinese scoots that were recently ridden down to The Gambia. We were so impressed with them - their durability, economy and handling  - yep really - that we binned the idea of bigger bikes and decided to take these instead.

We also noticed how little bikes drew us into the communities we were travelling through. Locals were really impressed that our bikes were just like theirs and it became a conversation starter and point of contact, as well as a source of amusement for people who clearly didn't believe that we were riding little bikes all the way from the UK to The Gambia. But we were and we did.

So that's how we got to where we're at. We're planning to leave in the first week of May - probably midweek and by ferry from Dover ( just so when people ask where we're off to we can say ' China, via the Gobi Desert', which they never do on the Channel Tunnel because they all sit in their cars). So its all out for visas ( Belle already has her Russian one, Nadine has bugger all) but we don't have to do any of the jab thing as we did all that for Africa.

So Scoot building resumes this morning. We're building Nadine's first while Belle's remains in the crate, and started on that last night. And how is this for dedication? 0800 on Easter Sunday morning. Changing tyres and gaffer taping wheel rims ( no euphemism implied) before even getting out of bed.

Need to do a few mods which will be easier to do as we build rather than have to dismantle. Eg, the wiring loom needs rerouting under the tank, the main switch relay needs reorientating and bodging so it sits better, lower engine bolt needs to be replaced with Honda originals which are stronger, wheel rims need taping to reduce spoke head damage, and we will fit protective screens on the main front and back lights to stop lenses smashing. Then everything will be locktighted.

Bikes
We took eight original Honda C90s and four Chinese copies. We also had a spare Lifan 110 engine taken out of another Chinese scooter, and a few other bits. - wheels, chains, sprockets, plugs, tyres and tubes. We took the same type of bikes for several reasons.

1. The hospital has a number of previously donated c90s so it made sense; broken ones could be used for spares, new spares could be used to renovate the old bikes if required.
2.It meant we were all on the same size bikes so fuel consumption and speed was generally the same, and everybody had more or less the same ride.
3.Only one set of tools was needed - no need for loads of different spanners etc and we could all get on with what needed to be done in a production line set up. Somebody sorted the fuel while somebody else did tyres, chains, oil etc

Problems
Belle's engine blew up. That was an original c90 which had been fully serviced prior to leaving. Not really something that could have been foreseen as it was a nut inside the engine casing that had worked loose and so would not have been picked up without a full strip down. Iain replaced it with the spare Lifan 110 engine which fitted with only some minor mods - the footrest had to be bent, extended and welded, and the leg guard cut to accommodate the bigger crankcase and it worked fine from then on. No more problems at all and the general concensus was that ironically, it was the fast smooth roads of Spain that had caused the problem as the bikes sat happily at 45/50mph at a constant resonance which hummed the nuts loose.

After this episode, we checked external nuts regularly and some had come loose and were tightened as required. But this didn't happen when we got onto rough roads or unmade tracks where surfaces were very tough and varied. The old c90s were generally very hardy and we had no further problems with them, save for punctures, float bowls working loose and one broken spoke.

But the amazing star were the Chinese copies. We had all expected them to be trouble, given the Chinese reputation for poor build quality, poor metal and cheap parts. But they lasted very well and got a real bashing everyday in very rough conditions. Three of the four riders are all big blokes, yet the frame withstood the whole month very well, retaining their lightness and manoeuverability. There were some minor problems - the footpeg rubber was made of cheese, the rear light and plate assembly broke off on two bikes, the clutches needed slightly different adjustment to the Honda C90s, and the paper thin rim tape that needed replacing with gaffer tape after punctures. The headset nuts also loosened off on all four but once detected, we just inspected and tightened as necessary.

In fact, they were so impressive that Nads and Belle have now binned their plans to ride bigger bikes to Mongolia this summer ( BMW F650 and an Yam XT 250) in favour of the smaller Chinese bikes which proved so versatile in Africa, particularly given their assortment of existing injuries. Small and light was much easier to deal day after day on 270+ mile rides in very testing conditions and heat.

Ordered them yesterday ( single seat versions with racks) and have about 3 weeks to run them in. We learnt alot on this trip so should be able to get straight in with known tweaks. Another plus is that they are similar to the smaller Chinese bikes that are common rides in Africa and central Asia - meaning easier to get spares, easier to fix or bodge and fits in better with local riders so spares etc shouldn't be an issue. And if tghey break, they are cheap enough to bin or sell and replace.

Kit
We were all limited to one bag on the truck so had minimal stuff as the rest had to go on the bike in panniers. The problem was the range of temperatures. -4 celcius in Spain, +41 in Mauritania. But layers was the key, and two pairs of gloves - winter and lightweight, with a pair of Marigold washing up gloves over the top ( or the latex workshop things) to keep the wind out. Two merino wool layers ( only needed one once it got heat as it dried in minutes in the heat or could be worn wet - not good in cooler temps though) one pair of socks and a pair of Seal Skinz over the top in the cold. Take light waterproofs - keeps the wind out top and bottom and warmth in if needed. You don't need expensive branded stuff, just something cheap that does the job as it will get trashed by sand and constant riding, and you'll bin it when its no longer useful. Learnt that one the hard way several years ago.

Gaffer tape and cable ties are a must. Mended everything from exhaust burnt riding pants to ripped jackets and loose indicators.

Looking after yourself
Rehydration tablets. Nuun is great. We were all drining water constantly in the desert but still getting dehyedrated due to salt and mineral loss. Nuun sorted that as did mandatory water intake at every stop BEFORE you get thirsty. Other rehydration are available and just as good of course....

Also plan regular short stops. All scoots could go for about 2 hours before refuelling. Use that time to refuel the bike and yourself. Pee ( not in the tank though as you won't get much further if you do) drink 500ml water ( pref from source containing rehydration tab) AND EAT SOMETHING - a biscuit, some bread, energy bar, dried fruit or whatever, even if you're not hungry. We're not talking full meal stops but just enough to retain your body's status quo. If you don't, you're likely to suffer concentration lapses and that's when things go wrong. We were lucky and learned to recognise the signs in others and force stops if necessary. Do not be peer pressured into going beyond your comfort zone just because somebody else feels ok.

Factor in needs as they arise. Be flexible because people endure the heat, conditions, feel ill or whatever differently from day to day. Recognise that things change and accommodate them accordingly. It's a big mistake to stick to a plan just because it was the plan before you left; just because you're a noob or haven't ridden particular conditions before, your opinion and needs are still important. You can still do what you need to do and cover the miles by looking after each other. If one person cracks, then you're likely to spend time the next day dealing with the consequences, so plan to avoid that and keep everybody safe.

If there are issues that need to be resolved or discussed, don't do it just before you ride. It is dangerous to everybody, as all riders should know. Do it when you've stopped for the day and everybody has the opportunity to work things through. A wound up, distracted rider is not good for anybody and it is dangerous.

Wild Camping
Away from the road and settlement, preferably hidden, bike reflectors pointing away from potential light sources. Keep your head torch , loo roll and a lighter handy - bury what you deposit and burn the paper - but don't bury it under a stone incase the flames catch and you have to stamp on it.

And don't pee into water sources or near well. It might be the villages main drinking water.

We've made it home! Well all of us who flew anyway. Nobody missed the plane, nobody was arrested, and Peter talked the whole way. Got in at about 0200, tired, filthy but on the biggest high ever. An awesome trip that was well worth every rattle, bump, near miss and police checkpoint. Photos will be posted as soon as I find my hard drive.

 Right folks, here's the last bit of the blog. A bit of overlap I'm afraid but that's due to texting to Tam in the absence of wifi. Many thanks for your help Tam and thanks everybody for following us. About to set off for the airport. See you soon!